ETHIOPIA - THE SOUTH
A travel report - Part 12
06/11/2019 – Arba Minch - Lake Chamo - Churches - Crocodile farm
(10/04/2011 according to the Ethiopian calendar)
 |
Normally,
today's itinerary included a full day exploring Nech Sar National Park
(also known as Nechisar), which we planned to do after an extended boat
trip on Lake Chamo as part of a safari. Unfortunately, our boat trip
had to be cut short, and the safari was canceled altogether. The reason
is a dispute between two villages that has been simmering for about
eight months. |
| It's already
difficult enough to reconcile Ethiopia's more than 80 ethnic groups...
and then there's this. Two villages are actually fighting over arable
and grazing rights in the context of internal border disputes. At
least, that's what Mastu told us. And unfortunately, it's not just a
matter of negotiation, but also escalating into violence on the ground.
Of course, we don't want to accidentally get caught in the crossfire.
It's a real shame... not because of the missed opportunity, but because
of our canceled plans, which might have helped the locals a little.
After all, we're not the only tourists who have had to stay away from
the area for the past eight months. The herds of zebras, antelopes, and
other wildlife, on the other hand, will probably appreciate that no one
is showing up and bothering them. Furthermore, the weather isn't cooperating again, as it's raining again. Nevertheless, we set off around 9:00 a.m. towards the Lake Chamo boat dock. Even though our location in Arba Minch is right between Lake Chamo and Lake Abaya, we still have quite a few kilometers to drive. We'll see what the time brings.   Images 1.122 + 1.223: Morning views from Paradise Lodge - It's raining
Lake Chamo, in turn, is said to connect to the very distant Sagan River during times of plenty, otherwise drying up.   Images 1.125 + 1.126: Morning views from Paradise Lodge Our first stop is the Arba Minch Tourist Office. There, we have to pick up our boatman and take him to Lake Chamo. Apparently, there's no other way at the moment, as there are few tourists around. Unfortunately, it's not just the boatman we have to deal with. He's brought along a shabby and smeared jerrycan, which gets a damp ring around the cap with every pothole. This is certainly not what we had in mind. Our minibus is completely filled with fumes. Marion is on the verge of vomiting and has to stick her nose out the window during the drive. The whole thing is incredibly irresponsible, and not just because of the gasoline fumes. Why Mastu agreed to this remains a mystery.
So we begin our journey with cautious hope of seeing anything at all, especially since our boat tour today has a restricted route.    Images 1.128 - 1.130: Cruising on Lake Chamo Lake Chamo, also known as Chamo Lake, is approximately 32 km long and 13 km wide, covering an area of about 317 km². Its water level lies at an altitude of approximately 1,110 m above sea level. At its deepest point, it can reach up to 14 m.   Images 1.131 + 1.132: The hippos (Hippopotamus amphibius) on Lake Chamo always keep a close eye on us. You practically never see one from behind. Occasionally, individual hippos, also called amphibious horses, cross our path. However, they quickly dive again if you get too close. It's best not to get too close to these behemoths, which weigh around 2 tons and can be quite dangerous for a boat like ours. The hippopotamus, by the way, ranks 10th among the world's most dangerous animals, causing approximately 500 human deaths annually. Big cats and sharks are considerably less dangerous. The animals at the top of the list are also significantly smaller. Mosquitoes hold the top spot. The malaria mosquito alone is responsible for around 750,000 deaths each year. So, always remember to take malaria prophylaxis if you're below 2,000 meters above sea level. However, 2,000 meters is just a guideline. Don't take it as gospel, and blame me if you get sick even at higher altitudes. ;-)    Bild 1.133 - 1.135: Nile crocodiles (Crocodylus niloticus) on Lake Chamo As we approached a stretch of shoreline with a few sandbanks after a long drive, the first crocodiles came into view. There weren't many, but they were there nonetheless. The bad weather thankfully didn't scare everyone away. One even gives us a slightly uneasy feeling when it targets our boat and heads straight for it. Nothing can really happen as long as no one gets the bright idea to get out.    Images 1.136 - 1.138: Nile crocodiles on Lake Chamo The Nile crocodile is the largest crocodile in Africa and can grow up to 4 meters long. While specimens up to 6.5 meters long have been recorded, these are extremely rare. We'd better not encounter one of those today, because that's where our trust in our boat ends.  I wonder if there are crocodiles here? ;-)     Images 1.139 - 1.143: On Lake Chamo The local fishermen, however, have boundless trust in their boats and in the crocodiles. They claim the crocodiles wouldn't harm them. Do the crocodiles know that, though? What most of the fishermen use on the lake can hardly be called boats. These contraptions are more like rafts, consisting of nothing more than a few pieces of wood tied together.   Images 1.144 + 1.145: And once again, a few hippos cross our path.   Images 1.146 + 1.147: This fisherman is much better equipped than the others. The weather has stabilized enough that we're confident we won't get wet or cold today. Yes, you heard right, it can get cold here too. That's why we'd prefer to stay closer to the shore and not be constantly exposed to the lake breeze. Of course, that's not the only reason, as it's much more interesting near the shore. Unfortunately, our boatman disagrees most of the time.   
 This nest certainly doesn't belong to this eagle. It would be a bit too low for him. ;-)  Images 1.148 - 1.152: Out and about on Lake Chamo Image 1.150: An African fish eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer) Image 1.152: And another trusting fisherman The African fish eagle just spotted is found south of the Sahara and normally only up to a maximum altitude of 1,000 meters above sea level. At 1,110 meters, Lake Chamo is actually already above the eagle's comfort zone. With its distinctive call, it is known throughout Africa and is therefore also called the "Voice of Africa."  Die The wingspan of African fish pelicans can reach up to 360 cm.      Images 1.153 - 1.158: Greater Pelicans (Pelecanus onocrotalus) and a few Spur-winged Lapwings (Vanellus spinosus) auf dem on Lake Chamo Image 1.158: Sadly, even here in paradise, there's plastic waste. Near a flock of pelicans, we finally get a short break on land, which gives us the chance to observe some water birds more closely. Luckily, our boatman has a weak bladder and is in a hurry to get off the boat. Otherwise, he probably would have continued across the lake. ;-)  
  Images 1.159 - 1.162: Fishermen and waterfowl on Lake Chamo Bild 1.160: The Giant Heron (Ardea Goliath) is the largest heron in the world Bild 1.161: The Marabou Stork (Leptoptilos crumeniferus) is actually a type of stork Image 1.162: The Egyptian Goose (Alopochen aegyptiaca), like the Nile Crocodile, is not only found on the Nile We naturally extend the boatman's break a little longer to suit our interests before he heads back to our starting point as quickly as possible. It's not far, as we can tell, and so we're back at our boat dock about 15 minutes later.    Images 1.163 - 1.165: Lake Chamo - Back to the starting point
   Images 1.167 - 1.169: Enjoying lunch and the view at the Emerald Resort in Arba Minch The sun is finally back. While it still looks a bit ominous in the distance, the forecast for today in Arba Minch is for nothing but beautiful weather. The view from the stunning Emerald is comparable to that from the Paradise Lodge. That much is certain. The approximately 1,000-meter distance hardly matters, given the long, steep drop-off to Lake Abaya east of Arba Minch. We can't comment on the resort's other amenities after such a brief visit. It's certainly no worse than this. Everything is clean and tastefully designed. Just take a look at the resort's website .  Image 1.170: Excerpt from the hotel brochure - Emerald Resorts & Lodges After the break, we're confronted with Mastu's early-blooming desire to call it a day. It's not even "Friday after 1," as we say, but only Tuesday. ;-) For Mastu, "cancelled" somehow means "free time." That's simply unacceptable. Once again, we realize that Mastu knows nothing beyond our itinerary and the "B-plans" outlined within it. We had already finalized and calculated everything in writing with Muluye, the owner of Zagol. It's perfectly understandable that nothing could be done yesterday due to the flood and our late arrival in Arba Minch. That was supposed to be a visit to a church and an inspection of the "40 Springs" (Arba Minch). But today, because of the program cuts resulting from the village conflict, there would be more than enough time to catch up. Besides, today's visit to the Crocodile Ranch is a definite backup plan. You have to find a replacement for canceled activities. Mastu initially looks for explanations and says that this should have been registered with the Tourist Office, etc., etc. That may be true, but certainly not every item on our itinerary. So he'll just have to try now if it was missed before. Now, this is causing a row between Alex and Mastu. We don't know who's blaming whom or what the underlying issues are. Unfortunately, our Amharic is far too limited. Who knows what the two of them had planned for the afternoon? But anyway, a few curses from Alex and clouds of dust later, we're standing with the minibus on a nearby hill west of the town, in front of the oldest church in the area. There you go... it can be done! ;-)  Image 1.171: Excerpt from Google Map - St. Mary's Monastery in Arba Minch - Simply click on the image or link to explore the location further. Mastu and Alex thankfully recover quickly and immediately have to deal with other problems. A few people are jealously guarding the church grounds. Every attempt to take a picture is met with endless complaints. After all, this church isn't really that special. What's their problem? Nothing helps. Mastu first has to find the Abba, who is supposed to live somewhere on the grounds. Here, "Abba," which means "father," is used to refer to almost any head of any church, no matter how small. It doesn't take long before a dignified, friendly priest appears and listens to our request. It's no problem at all. We're just supposed to leave a donation in the box in front of the church door. Unfortunately, he won't unlock the church. That's precisely what we would have liked to do.   
  Images 1.172 - 1.176: The Church of St. Mary's Monastery in Arba Minch We're circling around the issue like a cat around a hot stove, but we're not allowed inside. No matter which of the eight sides you look at the church from, there are no discernible differences, except perhaps for the entrance. Originally, the church was the Medhane Alem of Arba Minch. When construction began on the new Medhane Alem in the town below, this church was dedicated to Mary and is now called St. Mary or Bete Mariam. The site was declared a monastery, and the church was closed to the public. It is now only open twice a month for services held by the priests.       Images 1.177 - 1.182: Views over Arba Minch with and without zoom Image 1.182: The Gamo Gofa Zone Cultural Research Center From up here, you also have some beautiful views over the town. These sightlines will help us later to pinpoint our exact location on the map. South of us is a quarry, or rather a gravel plant. There you can clearly see how gravel is produced in Arba Minch. If you think there's nothing special about it, just look at the pictures. It's quite advanced! In other countries, we've seen it done entirely by hand, using only hammers or other stones, and only by women.    Images 1.183 - 1.185: Gravel production and loading in Arba Minch Meanwhile, Mastu has also been able to arrange our visit to the Crocodile Ranch. We are warmly welcomed. Since we're here outside of peak season, they're happy to see any visitor interested in crocodile breeding and marketing. So we leave our donation in the box and now drive to our next destination. At the foot of the hill with the monastery, we make another brief stop. They're currently building a large archway for the monastery. This shows once again just how large these church properties actually are (see image 1171 on the right).   Translation into English: In Gamo Gofa Province, Arba Minch City, the new St. Mary Church is under construction.  Images 1.186 - 1.188: Construction of an archway at the beginning of the approach to St. Mary's Monastery at the foot of the hill. Here, too, there are objections to my taking photos. However, when I point out that we are coming from the Abba Monastery and that I am acting with their permission, the construction workers are quickly reassured. Why the poster with the archway refers to a new church remains a mystery to us. We'll check via satellite in a few years to see if another church is actually being built here. Video: St. Mary's Monastery - Arba Minch We continue across the city from southwest to northeast towards Crocodile Ranch.   Images 1.189 + 1.190: Of course, there are mosques in Arba Minch, as everywhere in Ethiopia. Unfortunately, we don't know the names of the mosques pictured. We follow the A7 to the edge of town and leave it shortly after crossing the river, heading towards the airport. Halfway there, we turn right onto a dirt road before a left-hand bend. A large sign with a crocodile prevents anyone from going the wrong way.  Image 1.191: Signpost on the airport road to Crocodile Ranch Apparently, there have been several robberies of tourists from this point in the past. Of course, we're not talking about bandits, or rather, only those with full-body hair who mostly travel on their hands and feet. Actually, the numerous baboons swarming the track seem completely harmless. In that respect, the monkeys are just as bad as us. Not us directly, but as bad as humans in general.   Here come some ...,  ... everyone, please act harmless and bored ... 
 ... and then, at the right moment, attack from the bushes with the rearguard. ;-) Images 1.192 - 1.196: Baboons on the dirt track to the Crocodile Ranch in Arba Minch. There's nothing to be gained from us. Forewarned, we naturally stay in the car and don't open the windows more than necessary. After a few minutes, we finally reach the Crocodile Ranch with its unassuming entrance gate.  Image 1.197: Excerpt from Google Map - Crocodile Ranch in Arba Minch - Simply click on the image or link to explore the location further.  Image 1.198: The entrance gate to the Crocodile Ranch After the entry formalities at the main building inside are completed, a guide in a smart suit greets us and leads us around the grounds. Before we go to see the crocodiles, we are shown information panels in a large hall explaining everything there is to know about crocodiles, as well as their breeding and marketing here in Arba Minch.  
 Right at the door to the information hall, you are informed about the ranch's goals, which are not only for the production of crocodile skins but also for species conservation.  Images 1.199 - 1.202: The Crocodile Ranch's information and administration building After our basic knowledge has been expanded and reinforced, we finally go to the breeding facilities, which consist of numerous enclosures with pools and concrete resting areas for sunbathing. Elevated walkways run between them, allowing you to see into each enclosure. For any visitors who refuse to learn, there are a few warning signs on a wall before the first set of stairs leading to the breeding facilities, but unfortunately, these are only in Amharic. Are all visitors who speak other languages reasonable? Certainly not.  Image 1.203: Visitor Information: Apply the following precautions while entering the crocodiles pool 1. Don't make much noise that disturbs the crocodiles 2. Don't put plastic, stones, tissue paper or any waste materials into the pool 3. Don't hang either your leg or hand into the pool close to the crocodiles 4. Properly handle children to avoid any possible danger to them This should all go without saying. Apparently not for some people, otherwise these instructions wouldn't exist. Regarding the breeding program, we learn that in November, the crocodile eggs are collected from Lake Chamo and brought here for controlled incubation. This greatly increases the yield. After three to four years, the crocodiles are ready for slaughter. The crocodiles remain on the farm for a maximum of 10 years, but this is practically impossible due to the cost of feed. During this time, they only need to be fed twice a week. The crocodiles are only slaughtered and processed according to existing orders for meat, hides, and other products. All the others are supposed to be released into the wild at Lake Chamo after ten years at the latest. At least, that was the original plan. Currently, this happens years earlier. Aha, ... that explains why the fishermen aren't afraid of them. Maybe they're all tame by now. ;-) Ultimately, the goal is to increase the crocodile population in the lake and the national park in this way, resulting in more crocodiles than would survive natural reproduction and selection at the lake.      Images 1.204 - 1.208: View into the enclosures of Arba Minch's Crocodile Ranch  Image 1.209: The founding parents of the farm's first crocodiles still live in this individual enclosure. They are now over 38 years old. As we further learn, Germany is also among the buyers of crocodile products. Well, look at that... but woe betide us if we come across the German border with a belt made of crocodile leather from verifiable breeding projects! We'd immediately face legal proceedings. How hypocritical! Currently, they are considering expanding the ranch to also be able to present other animals in a zoo-like setting. They are thinking of pythons, civets, aquarium animals, ostriches, and others. The goal is to attract more tourists to better cover the farm's costs. The ranch currently employs approximately 35 people. About an hour is sufficient to see the current size of the ranch. Video: Crocodile Ranch - Arba Minch We're driving back to Arba Minch for the rest of the day to enjoy some free time. The baboon invasion of our route is still ongoing.   Images 1.210 + 1.211: Back at the baboon camp Alex and Mastu are relieved that they managed to satisfy us after all. While I get dropped off at the construction site of the new Medhane Alem Church in Arba Minch, Marion and Rainer head back to Paradise Lodge for some afternoon relaxation. We already passed by here on day 5 of our trip. Nevertheless, here's the church's location again as a reminder.  Image 1.212: Excerpt from Google Map - New Medhane Alem Curch in Arba Minch - Simply click on the image or link to explore further. 
  Images 1.213 - 1.215: The new Medhane Alem Church in Arba Minch, still under construction. During our transit on day 5, there was only time for general impressions of the surroundings. As part of my "occupational hazard," I was naturally interested in the details of the church's construction. When does one ever get the chance to inspect an Ethiopian church construction site at leisure? 
 Images 1.216 + 1.217: Scaffolding artistry, Ethiopian style. While I was taking in the endless tangle of scaffolding, watched by some giggling female construction workers, an older man approached me to find out what had sparked my interest. As I learned, he had learned the same trade as me, which made my inquiry easier. He had been working on the church from the very beginning, and it was expected to be largely completed in two years. "But we're in Ethiopia," he said with a wink. "You can never be sure." He's now 79 years old and hopes to still be around for the consecration. But things aren't any different in Germany... at least when it comes to major projects. Just think of the "Willy Brandt" BER airport. So no worries, Ethiopia. ;-)  Image 1.218: Trapped in the scaffolding of Medhane Alem Church 
  Images 1.219 - 1.221: The dome paintings are currently being painted Under the expert eye of my guide, all the prohibition signs and barriers are overcome, and we make our way up over sometimes wobbly planks and through the occasional gap, all the way to the top of the dome. My 79-year-old vanguard is considerably faster than me. But he knows the way and has already seen everything. Unfortunately, we don't encounter any of the painters in the dome. It must be a break or they've already finished for the day. What a shame. I'm sure I'll never get this close to the paintings again, all the way to the highest point of the dome.  
   Images 1.222 - 1.226: On the way to the central dome in the exterior of Medhane Alem Church in Arba Minch We now climb out through a round window in the dome and see the four corner towers, where the mosaic work is currently underway. Unfortunately, no one is here today either. I could climb further to the cross of the main dome. The walkway becomes increasingly rudimentary, and the last section is bridged by a slightly inclined "ladder," as seen at the corner towers. However, with this structure and my camera equipment, it's too risky for me to do so, so I decide to head back down. It's quite incredible to think about the conditions under which the construction workers are able to erect such buildings.    Images 1.227 + 1.228: We descend again and go outside. Image 1.229: View from the future church terrace to the southeast towards Haile Resort. The Haile Resort, however, isn't for travelers interested in experiencing the local culture and wanting traditional accommodations. But still, there's something to suit every taste in Arba Minch. ;-) After completing our tour, I naturally want to reward my guide, but he declines. He'd be happy if I made a donation towards the church's construction. And as I can see from a distance as I walk away, my bill does indeed go into the collection plate and not into his pocket.  Image 1.230: Cemetery of Medhane Alem Church in Arba Minch. To the south of Medhane Alem Church stretches a cemetery almost 300 meters long. The cemetery culture of other countries is always interesting and worth a short visit. We've shown several examples in our past travelogues about Ethiopia, so we won't repeat them here. And here is the second part of our church visit in moving pictures, as a supplement to Part 1, which we already showed on the fifth day of our trip. Video: Medhane Alem Church - Arba Minch - Part 2 - Climbing into the dome After a few walks around the immediate area, which didn't reveal anything particularly interesting, I gave in to the constant offers of transport from the numerous Bajaj drivers and let them take me back to the Paradise Lodge. Price: 20 Birr, so nothing to write home about. Anyone wanting to explore the area around the town on their own can certainly negotiate a daily rate without hesitation.      Images 1.231 - 1.235: Our bungalow at the Paradise Lodge and views from the terrace overlooking Lake Abaya Now there are still a few hours before sunset. What to do? Lie on the cushioned lounger on our terrace, read and listen to the sounds from the jungle below, enjoy the view... or...? I'm opting for "or." After all, there won't be time tomorrow morning to explore the rest of the hotel's facilities and its surroundings. Perhaps I'll have another chance to relax.    Images 1.236 - 1.238: Paradise Lodge pool and adjacent unused areas to the south The lodge has a well-maintained pool, but none of the guests seem interested in using it today. The rainy weather meant that, despite the later sunshine, the weather never quite turned into ideal swimming weather. So, the pool DJ has his sound system all to himself today and is conducting a few musical experiments. Between the bungalows and the lodge's main walkway are spacious green areas. These include numerous fruit and vegetable patches, which are presumably also used for the hotel's upkeep (see video). There's quite a lot to discover there. But please be mindful of your surroundings and don't be alarmed if a baboon or a warthog suddenly crosses your path. We already showed you the warning sign at the beginning of the day. Occasionally, some very clever individuals manage to outsmart the security staff. Further south is an abandoned hotel section, similar in design to the Paradise Lodge. Whether this part was once part of the complex in better times or belongs to another owner who has since abandoned it, we don't know. At least it doesn't look like this area could be reactivated without considerable effort when visitor numbers increase seasonally. Here's a video of the Paradise Lodge with clips from the last two days, showing views in both bad and good weather. Video: Paradise Lodge - Arba Minch All that remains is dinner, for which we'll use the indoor dining area to enjoy it in peace and quiet. With that, we say goodbye for today and move on to some more private time. There's plenty to sample! ;-) 
   Images 1.239 - 1.242: The Paradise Lodge restaurant and "our" impressively numerous wine racks. That should last us quite a while! ;-) We'll see you again tomorrow when we head towards our next overnight stop at Lake Langano, a journey of approximately 350 kilometers. We'll see what the road throws our way and don't have a specific plan. Copyright: www.reggaestory.de Photos: Marion & Peter Joachim Text and Videos: Peter Joachim English version: Gabriele Brown |
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