ETHIOPIA - THE SOUTH

A travel report - Part 10
06/09/2019 – Omorate - Dassanech - Buska Lodge
(10/02/2011 according to the Ethiopian calendar)

Today we head to the southwestern tip of Ethiopia to Omorate to visit the Dassanech people. From there we are only about 30 km from South Sudan to the west and about 50 km from Kenya to the south. Omorate is located directly on the Omo River and is the last major town before the national borders.

Until then, about 140 km have to be overcome on a sandy track. That's why we're being picked up at 8:30 today. The river in Turmi has become a small trickle again and this time it doesn't cause us any problems. The sandy track that we had been warned about also shows a different face than expected. The Chinese road builders were once again faster than the information available to us, because they have meanwhile laid a black asphalt snake through the Ethiopian bush to Omorate. That's why we're moving faster and don't have to deal with clouds of dust from oncoming vehicles and potholes. The disadvantage of this is that we drive past much too quickly and so we cannot observe the animals at all, which of course also exist here. Image 915 + 916: Endless bush between Turmi and Omorate A unique feature of this area are the numerous slender clay structures rising up among the acacia trees. Mastu jokes with us, telling us that these structures are burial sites of the tribes who live here. Of course, that's complete nonsense, and the termite builders living inside must have laughed themselves silly. These clay tubes, some over four meters high and hollow inside, were indeed built by a species of red termite found here. We've seen many termite mounds, but never anything like these. Image 917 - 919: Termite mounds between Turmi and Omorate A little later we discover a flock of guinea fowls that don't match our memories at all, and we also get the opportunity to observe the rare guinea fowl for the first time. Image 920 - 922: The Vulturine guineafowl (Acryllium vulturinum) The Valturine Guineafowl is the largest species in the Guineafowl family, growing to between 61 and 71 cm in length. It is listed on the Red List of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Image 923 - 925: A bright hilltop with changing vegetation and a view Image 926: Goats without helmets... that's simply unacceptable! ;-) Near the Omo River, just before Omorate, the bushland ends, and we see expansive fields. The fields are fertile and are naturally fertilized anew each year by the Omo's floodwaters. Seasonal villages of the Dassanech people can be found right at the edges of the fields. The villages are abandoned when the workers are no longer needed. Image 927 - 930: Agriculture and cotton cultivation near Omorate and a seasonal village of the "Dassanech". However, we only see women and children working in the fields. Five minutes later we reach Omorate and turn left into the town just before the bridge over the Omo River. Before you can travel further in the area, you have to register in Omorate. So please don't forget your passport. A copy of your passport is sufficient. We're familiar with this from other trips and always carry a supply of copies for such purposes. This saves a lot of time, because otherwise the Ethiopian officials can patiently copy down all the passport data and examine every page of the document at their leisure. You can't expect every checkpoint in the countryside to have a photocopier. Image 931: Omorate - Bridge over the Omo and onward road to South Sudan Omorate, also known as Kelem, lies 395 meters above sea level and is the administrative center of the Kuraz Woreda in the Debub Omo Zone of the Southern Nations, Nationalities and Peoples Region. Omorate is estimated to have a population of over 3,400, although this estimate is several years old. The majority of the population, approximately 74%, consists of the Amhara, Dassanech, Oromo, and Wolaytta peoples. The remaining percentage is comprised of Gamo, Gofa, Konso, and other ethnic groups. Image 932 - 934: By dugout canoe across the Omo Not far from our registration point is a clearing surrounded by large trees, right on the banks of the Omo River. Here we can park, get some food, and then cross the Omo in a dugout canoe. This agenda item would, of course, be much more appealing if the bridge over the Omo weren't visible a few hundred meters further on. Image 935: Google Map - Omorate and Dassanech villages - Simply click the image or link to explore the location further. The dugout canoe landing is located at the Dasfeel Museum and Cafe, and further west, across the Omo River, lie two Dassanech villages. There's not much to see on the boat trip except brown water and a wooded stretch of shoreline. And YES, then there's the bridge ... which we don't really want to see or photograph. ;-) Image 936 + 937: Omo River near Omorate Besides our dugout canoe, another one is paddling with a few tourists. Despite the slippery riverbank and the wobbly canoes, everyone manages to reach the other side with dry feet. Getting in and out requires a bit of caution. On the other side of the Omo, we are greeted by expansive green fields planted with sorghum and corn. This, of course, doesn't escape the notice of the local birds, who happily help themselves to the bountiful harvest. But they haven't reckoned with the Dassanech. Wooden platforms stand throughout the fields, each manned by sentries with whips. If a few birds appear anywhere, they are chased away with loud cracks of the whips. And, as you might have guessed, the women and children are best at this task. The platforms also serve as shade, providing a place for the relief crew to rest or perform other duties. Image 938: Dassanech field guard Image 939: Dassanech field watch west of the Omo River near Omorate After a 20-minute walk, we reach a larger Dassanech village. It is surrounded by a wall of brush and dry branches. Within this wall are numerous low, round huts built from all sorts of materials available from nature, supplemented with corrugated iron, roofing felt, plastic tarpaulins, and other things suitable for weather protection. Image 940 - 944: In the village of Dassanech Interspersed among the buildings are animal sheds, which at first glance are hardly distinguishable. Ultimately, however, the difference is obvious. These are often open at the top or receive no protection from the valuable corrugated iron sheets and tarpaulins. Image 945: Dung beetle - The fight for the ball - There can only be one winner! Image 946 - 954: In the Dassanech village As we learn, building the huts is once again women's work. What else is there to do, and where are the men? We don't see many, apart from a few elderly people for whom leaving the village is too difficult. Image 955 - 957: House construction is once again women's work among the Dassanech. The Dassanech, also known as Daasanach (Marille or Geleba), live predominantly in the Debub-Omo Zone of South Sudan and northern Kenya, near Lake Turkana. Originally a pastoralist people, the Dassanech have increasingly established themselves in agriculture alongside cattle, goat, and sheep farming. This is particularly due to the fact that they have lost large portions of their traditional Kenyan lands in recent years. They also use Lake Turkana for fishing and crocodile hunting, which is often reflected in their body adornments. According to a 2007 census, there were over 48,000 Dassanech at that time. The Dassanech also maintain their own language of the same name. Image 958 - 965: Among the Dassanech in Omorate Those wishing to take photographs during their village visit must pay the local guide an additional 200 Birr, which benefits the village community. This is the best solution for both avid photographers and the village itself. Anything else would be far too complicated. Today, unlike the Hamer and Banna, the Dassanech have completely different hairstyles, jewelry, and clothing. However, they also sometimes incorporate clay into their hair to strengthen it. Image 966 - 971: Singing and Dancing among the Dassanech From afar, we hear women singing, which is just ending as we arrive. They have apparently welcomed the crew of the dugout canoe that arrived before us. The women and girls form a circle for us once more and begin their dance again. Image 972 - 981: Hairstyles and Jewelry of the Dassanech Anyone wanting to adorn themselves like the Dassanech can, of course, find plenty of options here. Tourists probably won't want the necklace with the most pearls, but the Dassanech have anticipated this and offer more modest models. Those who would like to wear a tooth from a Turkana crocodile or a warthog will also find those available. Lake Turkana is said to be home to the world's largest crocodile population. However, it's likely that importing them into Germany is prohibited due to species protection laws. So, it's best to check beforehand. Image 982 - 992: The Dassanech's Shops Let's take a look around the village and watch the children playing. We'd prefer to see some of their toys buried, at least the rats. That doesn't sit well with us. The heat on your head, the dry wind, and then the "fragrant" rats... it all makes you feel a bit uncomfortable. Unfortunately, we can't offer the children anything in return. But they don't seem to mind anyway and examine their "stuffed animals" down to the smallest detail. Image 993 - 1.004: With the Dassanech of Omorate We always find the Dassanech to be friendly. No one is bothered by our presence or tries to ask anything of us, even though they could certainly use everything they have. A Dassanech man... a rarity during our visit. Right: I have the best optician! ;-) Image 1.005 - 1.012: With the Dassanech near Omorate There's one thing we simply can't avoid, though. We absolutely must stop at a hut. The children are having a blast. Inside, the heat is unbearable under the corrugated iron, but the children are running around completely unfazed, still singing a song. Our eyes are burning and our vision is blurry as sweat pours down our faces and into our eyes. We're glad when we finally emerge back into the "fresh" air, red as tomatoes. A good remedy for the heat. ;-) Image 1.013 - 1.018: With the Dassanech near Omorate Video: Dassanech Village near Omorate Our visit with the Dassanech is now coming to an end, and we've gained many new impressions of another of the country's ethnic groups. We leave the village and head back along the same path towards the Omo River. The "all-inclusive" atmosphere and the friendliness are now a thing of the past, as we quickly realize. A quick pan of the video camera across the almost deserted landscape is enough to get persistent requests for tips. Even a few hundred meters of walking isn't too much trouble. This continues even after the five-minute boat ride across the Omo. The ferryman actually thinks an additional tip of 400 birr is appropriate. Sometimes you wonder how some people come up with such sums. You'd like his hourly wage. Oh no, wait, ... of course, in addition to the tip. ;-) Image 1.019 - 1.021: Back through the sorghum fields and across the Omo River Now to relax with a refreshing drink in the shade of the large trees, watch the monkeys in the trees for a while, and then it's time to head back towards Turmi. The giant termites are arriving. ;-) Image 1.022 - 1.024:Termite mound and red-flowering thorn bushes Thanks to the new Chinese road, we were back at Buska Lodge by 1:30 pm. Unfortunately, no additional activities came up along the way. So we had another long free afternoon. Plenty of time to explore the landscape on the other side of the lodge a bit. But first, here are a few more pictures from the lodge. Image 1.025 + 1.026: Reception area with a small souvenir shop Image 1.027: The restaurant Image 1.028: All our empty wine bottles found a new purpose on the lodge grounds. ;-) Image 1.029: Duranta erecta, also known as Doveberry or Heavenly Flower Image 1.030 + 1.031: Coffee Pavilion But now, out into the wilderness, which seems very similar to the area we explored yesterday. Nevertheless, there are new impressions and a few different plants and animals to discover. Initially, a narrow path leads along the lodge fence, eventually branching out beyond recognition and disappearing into the terrain. Now you have to decide whether you'd rather fight your way through the denser vegetation near the dry riverbed or have a bit more open space. I think the second option is much more relaxing. Image 1.032 - 1.037: Hike through the area south of Buska Lodge Image 1.036: Tockus deckeni / Von der Decken's hornbill Of course, we also encounter the desert rose here, which constantly surprises us with its imaginative new formations. Image 1.038 - 1.043: A very old specimen of the Desert rose (Adenium obesum) with flowers and seed heads. The terrain in this area seems to be more densely populated with various euphorbia and succulent species than that of yesterday's exploration. Just as yesterday, however, the almost invisible, man-made thorn hedges hinder our exploration or constantly dictate different directions. Image 1.044 - 1.050: Glimpses of the vegetation south of Buska Lodge. The further you get from the dry riverbed, the more open the terrain becomes. It's also situated a bit higher than Buska Lodge, offering a beautiful view into the distance. There's a small mountain nearby that, with a bit more time, you could easily reach and enjoy an even better view. But there's far too little time for that now, as Mastu has arranged to be picked up at 5:30 pm for a walk in Turmi. Perhaps we'll go up the mountain next time. ;-) Image 1.051 - 1.053: Landscapes near Turmi, close to Buska Lodge. It's slowly becoming time to head in the opposite direction to keep to the schedule; after all, well over 50% of the planned hiking time has already passed. Since the return journey is usually faster, there's still some time left to visit the riverbank on the other side of the lodge. This is met with loud protests. There's a crackling and rustling in the bushes, and a large baboon is making its territorial claims quite clear. It's best not to mess with baboons. You never know how the monkeys will react, even if they seem to be sitting peacefully and keeping their distance. It's better to increase the distance and take a different path. Peace quickly returns to the bush, and no one is to be seen. Short and long petals Image 1.054 - 1.057: At the river near Buska Lodge Even today, it's hardly possible to call it a river. Only a few centimeters of water trickle gently along in places. The mud of the riverbed, however, is wet across its entire width, indicating that the situation can change very quickly. From a distance, the mud almost looks like water. Here are a few summary impressions of yesterday's and today's hikes, as well as some video footage from Buska Lodge. Video: Buska Lodge and surrounding landscape There's still plenty of time to prepare for Mastu's pickup and the last item on the day's agenda. Mastu is on time, and we quickly reach nearby Turmi. There aren't any particular highlights to admire in Turmi, just the very simple small-town life, which is more reminiscent of a village. There isn't much activity on the town's main street, apart from a few small pubs. So we at least have a beer and watch the activity on the street as dusk falls, where some men have even set up a "gym". ;-) Image 1.058: That's one way to do it. A branch, two empty tin cans, and some mortar—that's all you need for the cheapest exercise equipment. While the guys keep working hard, probably because they didn't have enough to do during the day or didn't help their wives and mothers with their work, we head back to the lodge for our last dinner in this area. We'll see each other again tomorrow when we slowly make our way back north, first heading directly to Arba Minch. Copyright: www.reggaestory.de Photos: Marion & Peter Joachim Text and Videos: Peter Joachim English version: Gabriele Brown

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