ETHIOPIA - THE SOUTH

A travel report - Part 7
06/06/2019 – From Jinka to the Mursi and Key Afer Market
(09/29/2011 according to the Ethiopian calendar)

Today there is no packing on the program, as we will stay in Jinka for another night. So we can tackle today's plan without additional effort, which includes visiting the Mursi people and exploring the colorful weekly market in Key Afer. For the first part we will cover a distance of over 140 km.

We hardly slept last night. On the one hand, the priests of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church "entertained" us, and on the other hand, howling hyenas and roaring cows repeatedly took part in the sermons. We actually like to hear the Ethiopian church chants, but when these are interrupted by endless and loud lectures by the priests over loudspeakers, it is impossible for us to find sleep. We did not find out which saint was responsible for this, who was celebrated that night. Unfortunately, the whole ceremony dragged on almost until morning. Accordingly, we sit sleepily at the breakfast table and need our time to get going. Our departure is scheduled for 7:30 a.m. and we are now slowly going to the meeting point at the entrance of the lodge, where Mastu and Alex will arrive soon afterwards. At least they both look well rested. Fortunately, the accommodation of the two was a bit further away from the nightly celebrations. On the drive to the Mursi, we have to be accompanied by a local guide, whom Mastu and Alex have already picked up, because this way our journey can begin without any further detours. Image 518 - 520: View of the Mago National Park We drive over a sand track in a westerly direction from Jinka to the Mago National Park. Actually, the park was originally part of our itinerary, but Mastu says that most of the animals disappeared when a sugar factory and sugar cane plantations of over 250,000 hectares were built in the middle of the park under Chinese leadership. It is unclear to everyone how this could happen in view of the national park character of the area. The park was only founded in 1971 and has an area of ​​around 2,162 km². It lies at an altitude between 450 and 2,528 m above sea level. The highest point is Mount Mago. In addition, the park is also crossed by a river of the same name. Originally there are said to have been buffalo, cheetah, elephant, giraffe, wildebeest, leopard, lion, zebra, African wild dog and numerous other mammals in the park. In total, over 81 larger mammal species have been counted. In addition, up to 237 species of birds can be discovered. The diverse flora, some hot springs and numerous impressive viewpoints in the park are also remarkable. Wildlife watching safaris in Mago National Park are still offered today, which gives hope that not everyone has run away yet. Let us hope for the expertise of the new and future Ethiopian guides. Image 521 - 524: Vultures in the Mago National Park This leaves us only with the few animals that we discover by chance on the edge or on our slopes. We particularly often meet extensive relatives who besiege the route here in the form of baboons. But it is better not to make closer contacts, because they should not belong to the friendliest kind. Image 525 - 527: Through the Mago National Park - guinea fowl + baboons After about an hour's drive, a crowd of people sits on the edge of the sand runway. Here our troop is growing. Now we are also heavily armed, because another guide with a submachine gun has to come with us. The Ethiopian rulemakers will already know why. Because of the "disappeared" wildlife, that probably won't be. After all, Ethiopia is known for its numerous ethnic unrest. In addition, many locals have their own gun here. Image 528 + 529: Sea of yellow flowers at the checkpoint Image 530: 15 minutes later After our arming with the machine gun operator, it takes about 30 minutes until we come across a small Mursi camp. It is not far from the sand runway and does not make a particularly lifelike impression on us. Another group of visitors who would like to get to know the Mursi has already arrived at the "parking lot". Of course, we like that less and the other group certainly doesn't like it either. Image 531 - 538: With the Mursi in the Mago National Park First of all, it has to be negotiated whether you want to take photos or film. Our local guide explains the situation. To get into the camp and take photos, 100 birr per person have to be paid. So not 100 birr for a photo, but for each photographer. Then you can take as many photos as you want. Otherwise, 5 birr per photo are currently common in the region. The aforementioned flat rate is of course much better, also because of the constant inquiries and rummaging about the money, which is then not necessary. However, in view of this knowledge, we had already stocked ourselves with plenty of 5 Birr notes in Addis. If you still want to shoot videos, you have to pay another 200 birr. The money is given to a tribe representative who then divides it up somehow or uses it for certain things of the tribe. Image 539 - 548: With the Mursi in the Mago National Park However, not everyone seems to agree with these tribal rules. As soon as the local guide, our armed escort and the tribal representatives do not have everything in view, separate demands are made, which are sometimes very "urgent" to the point. In order to get a photo, the purchase of a lip plate is also often requested. Sometimes one or the other stone or piece of wood flies in that direction. As far as we can tell, it's once again just the women and mostly the older ones. So you should behave carefully as usual when photographing people, even if you have general permission from the tribal representation. Image 549 - 559: The Mursi with their lip plates Unfortunately, we hardly get to see anything of normal tribal life. It seems like they have been waiting for us and the big lip plate sales event has started. Somehow we feel like this camp is only operated for the purpose of tourist receptions. You actually don't see anything that the Mursi otherwise occupy themselves with or what they live on. You can't even see the lip plate production itself, which requires a lot of work steps. Normal village life probably takes place in a completely different place. Image 560 - 569: At the Mursi in the Mago National Park The Mursi people, who call themselves Mun, are currently estimated to have around 10,000 members and most of them live in the western to northern area of ​​the Mago National Park. Their tribal area has shifted somewhat over the centuries, which has led to conflicts with their neighbors. After access to modern weapons, these conflicts became more dangerous. The Mursi are divided into five subgroups called Ariboli, Baruba, Biogolokare, Gongulobibi and Mugjo. These in turn are divided into so-called clans, which are based on the paternal lineage. The Mursi could well be seen as semi-nomads, as they mainly live from cattle breeding and agriculture, the location of which they align with the rainy seasons. That is why they usually have different villages that they change as needed. The most important crops are sorghum, corn, beans and chickpeas. Depending on how the rainy seasons are and the water of the Omo and Mago rivers rises or falls, the cultivation fields are re-established near the river or further away. Image 570 - 578: At the Muris in the Mago National Park The Mursi are particularly known for their wives' so-called lip plates. At the age of 15 (at the latest) the lower lip of the young girl is pierced with a wood, the size of which increases over time. When the hole has enlarged enough, a clay disc is placed in the enlargement with a groove on the edge so that the disc can be held in the lower lip. The discs continue to enlarge until at some point a diameter of at least 12 cm is reached. During this time, the lower incisors are also removed, otherwise they will hit the lip plates. It is said that the size of the lip plate also has an impact on the bride price. How this tradition originally came about is not known for certain. An unproven story, for example, is that the attempt was made to make women uninteresting for slave hunters. Others see the plates as a shield against evil spirits. But why should only women be protected from evil spirits? In addition to the lip plates, the Mursi also have decorations on the skin by means of artificially created scars. Imaginative headdresses, in which almost any material can be used, are also popular. In the case of the men, you can often also see a wide variety of white body paints. They are particularly proud of their weapons, which usually turn out to be Soviet submachine guns, which they must have come across in the days of the Derg. Probably no potential conflict partner wants to find out whether these still work today or are only used as threatening gestures and status symbols. However, these submachine guns are not only found among the Mursi, but are widespread among the tribes throughout the country. Image 579 - 586: At the Mursi in the Mago National Park After we have probably met every member of the clan and unfortunately not learned much about the Mursi way of life, we head back towards Jinka to take our lunch break in the usual place. Let's see if we will discover one or the other photo motif along the way. Image 587 - 589: Oyster tree or Oscher shrub / Calotropis procera The fruits of the plant, which belongs to the dog poison plant family, are also known as "Sodom's apple". This leads to confusion with another plant of the same name. Image 590 - 593: Views over the Mago National Park + soil structures of a mountain Image 594 - 596: Children of the Mursi at the edge of the piste, who with their eye-catching body painting can hardly be overlooked. Finally we arrive back at the yellow flower meadow and our gunmen say goodbye to wait here for the next travelers. Image 597 + 598: Mago National Park - Yellow sea of flowers at the checkpoint And on it goes in the direction of Jinka and again past "our" vultures, which are still gathering in considerable numbers. Now we can also see the bottom after taking a look from an elevated point over the bush and grassland. A little way from the piste, there is something big in the bushes, and the surrounding area is almost boiling with countless vultures that keep stretching their bloody necks in the air. Unfortunately, we cannot see more details from a distance and we do not want to get to the bottom of the matter directly. That’s too uncertain for us. Who knows what else is hidden in the undergrowth. Image 599 - 602: The Dikdik / Salt's dik-dik (Madoqua saltiana), a dwarf antelope Finally we arrive back at Jinka and the Besha Gojo Restaurant. Mike's car is in a different place today. He will probably avoid the Beja Gojo Restaurant for a few days until he is sure not to see us again. ;-) After lunch we head south to Key Afer to visit the weekly market, which is about 60 minutes away. Image 603 - 605: Stilt walkers shortly before Key Afer Shortly before Key Afer, some white-painted children are walking on stilts on the street, hoping for one or two birrs from the passers-by. The idea seems to be quite successful, and not only with the few tourists who are currently traveling here. In Key Afer you will mainly meet members of the Banna ethnic group (recommendation for information on other ethnic groups: Atlas of Humanity). However, there is a weekly market every Thursday and therefore representatives of other tribes can also be found. The area of ​​the Banna borders directly on the area of ​​the Hamer. Both ethnic groups are difficult to distinguish from the outside. It is even believed that the Banna emerged from the Hamer centuries ago. In today's market you can see mostly both ethnic groups. Let's take a look around the town and start our market visit with a local eatery on the edge of the market area. Image 606 - 609: In a Banna eatery in Key Afer In the Banna market bar, people literally "drink" a lot. However, we don't know what kind of thick brew it is. Is that alcoholic or not? The majority of the approximately 45,000 Banna are Muslims after all and one should not suspect alcohol there. However, several thousand tribespeople count themselves among the Christians. Visually we cannot see any difference between the two religious communities. So the answer is still open for the day. Unfortunately, we cannot stay as long as we would like, as it is once again the local women who are against it. The hustle and bustle on the market area and the village streets are optical fireworks. You can hardly get away and you could ask a thousand questions. Colorfully decorated people and some goods that we have never seen before. Now you should be able to speak their language. Mastu and the local guide who is responsible for us are unfortunately not of great help. Mastu cannot speak the language of the Banna, of course, and the local guide's English is limited to just a few keywords. Image 610 - 618: Key Afer Market The best thing about the whole thing is that we hardly attract any attention and are the only pale faces and tourists in the area. Here, too, of course, always ask in advance for photos taken up close. Some are for and others are against. But please don't forget the usual photo money of 5 Birr! Shooting from a distance with many people is usually not a problem. That would also be quite difficult with the payment. ;-) Image 619 - 625: Key Afer Market The market area is divided into three different main areas. The biggest and most interesting part, and the one with the most people, is the one where mainly food and luxury goods are traded. Household items, textiles, shoes and other items are traded in the middle area. And at the very end there is still a part that deals with jewelry, carvings and various ethnic souvenirs. Image 626 - 634: Key Afer Market In the area of carvings and jewelry it is then over with the non-observance by the locals. The traders know very well that this is the best place to do business with tourists. Before you touch and look at something, you should be almost certain that you want to purchase this or a similar part. Otherwise you have an additional companion on your cheek for the rest of your stay in Key Afer. And if the pursuer gives up at some point, another dealer has already noticed and takes over the replacement with a similar item for sale. Image 635 - 643: The handicrafts area of the Key Afer Market In this area, everything is to be had from the lance tip to all traditional jewelry, headrests, knives, bells in all sizes and shapes, colorfully embroidered fur clothing, to the variously decorated bottle gourds. Furthermore, of course, everything that can be carved out of wood. Image 644 - 648: Wood carvings at the Key Afer Market Actually, we don't want to buy anything, but then we make the "mistake" of looking at a few busts of different Hamer women who wear different jewelry depending on their status. For example, the first woman wears different hoops around her neck than the second. Taking the busts off again is not possible. Now we are trapped in the dealer network. Photographing the other range is now out of the question. Fortunately, we have now reached the end of our tour of the market anyway. Now numerous busts are being carried after us by different dealers. We have already left the market area, but the dealer whose figures we had in hand is still not giving up. Image 649 + 650: Banna or Hamer or ...? Dealing with other things doesn't help either. The dealer follows us to the center of the village, where we want to have another coffee. After all, his persistence pays off and for the equivalent of 30 EUR we are richer by two Hamer women made of one and a half kilos of ebony and we can now enjoy our coffee in peace. In retrospect, however, we are very satisfied that we made the trade. The figures are really nicely made and worth the price. We'll find a nice place for the figures at home. Video: Key Afer Market Image 651: First (left) and second Hamer wife (right). But there is also a third wife who wears another necklace. Women who wear the jewelry of the first and second wife together can also be found. In this case the woman has entered into a second marriage and has now become the second wife of the second husband. Obviously, you cannot become the first wife twice. At least we haven't seen a single Hamer woman wearing the necklace of the first wife twice. Incidentally, the brass bangles should be negotiated for a maximum of 100 birr each. Relaxed after our Ethiopian coffee and extensive enjoyment of the village hustle and bustle on the adjacent road, we return to Jinka. Image 652: Landscape between Key Afer and Jinka Back in Jinka, it's far too early to simply drive back to the lodge, so we take a little walk in the village beforehand. So we arrive back at the Eco-Omo Lodge around 5 p.m. Since we hardly slept last night, we try to listen a little on our mattresses until dinner, which, however, does not suit the animals romping around on our roof. So it will probably be nothing to catch up on the missed last night sleep. Image 653: Arch raven (Corvus crassirostris) / Thick-billed raven on our tent roof Tomorrow morning we will leave the Eco-Omo Lodge and head to Turmi. The visit of the Hamer people is on our program. Copyright: www.reggaestory.de Photos: Marion & Peter Joachim Text and Videos: Peter Joachim English version: Gabriele Brown

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